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One table

Dinner is at eight, five nights a week, and there is one menu.

What is on it depends on what came up the hill that morning. In practice that means four or five courses, a lot of vegetables, and whatever the fishmonger in Régua had that was worth the drive.

Wine is from the valley, usually from someone we can see from the terrace. We pour it rather than sell it by the bottle, and it is on the bill at the end.

Tell us when you book if you do not eat something. We will cook around it rather than hand you a different plate.

Breakfast laid out on a wooden table in low morning light

Breakfast

From seven-thirty on the terrace, or in the lounge if the wind is up. Bread from the oven, eggs from four fields away, fruit off the property in season and coffee that is taken seriously.

Sitting down at eight with six strangers sounded like the worst part of the trip. It was the best.

Marta , Lisbon, in the guest book